Dolomites Vacation Guide: Discovering Val Gardena & Ortisei

Packed into our rented four-wheel-drive SUV, we hugged the curves climbing higher and higher into the mountains. Around every bend another awe-inspiring view awaited, and the Dolomites beckoned us deeper. The original plan for the Dolomites section of our Italian vacation was to hike from rifugio (a high-altitude mountain hut) to rifugio. Trekking with our belongings on our backs and our eyes down the trail was our whimsical plan. Unbeknownst to us, most rifugios are closed until mid to late June.

This Dolomites vacation, despite our lack of planning, became one of our all-time favorites.

In late May, just one month before our trip to Italy, our lofty trekking plan was crushed. With the hopes of salvaging some Italian Alps adventure, my girlfriend and I booked a hotel in the Val Gardena region of the Dolomites, which is one of the southernmost and most accessible areas during the early summer season. Val Gardena is home to three main villages: Ortisei, Santa Cristina, and Selva di Val Gardena. The small town of Santa Cristina would be our home for the next five days.

Allow me to dive into the backstory of the idyllic mountain town of Santa Cristina. From Milan, a roughly 3.5-hour drive will bring you to the Val Gardena region. This area presents, both architecturally and culinarily, more German than Italian. The name Santa Cristina is in honor of Santa Christina of Bolsena, a Christian martyr from the 3rd century. This is a tale worth researching on your own time. The small village is now known for its access to both winter sports and summer shenanigans. Think skiing, hiking, mountain biking, and the like. These outdoor pursuits often define any Dolomites vacation, so bring your walking shoes.

It is hard for me to give a true interpretation of Santa Cristina. June is the shoulder season, so most of the town was still closed. Despite a visit during the off season, Santa Cristina is still well worth the visit. From our hotel window, the sedimentary peaks of the Dolomites could be seen cutting through crystal-blue skies. The sound of a nearby waterfall could be heard across the rushing river running through town. Church bells rang and birds chirped. It felt like you were a part of the surrounding mountains in Santa Cristina.

It’s impossible not to feel adventurous in the Val Gardena region. Trails criss-cross Santa Cristina, connecting it to the surrounding mountains and the neighboring towns. It often felt as if there were more cyclists than motorists. The steep incline in every direction made just walking a workout, even for a runner like myself. We chose this particular region due to its proximity to the famous Seceda Mountain and Puez Odle Nature Park. What we didn’t expect to also be spectacular was the German food, pastries, and culture baked into the landscape.

The neighboring town of Ortisei seemed to be much more lively compared to Santa Cristina. We found ourselves taking the 5-minute drive down the road to Ortisei to find a restaurant open past 8:00 p.m. Unlike Santa Cristina, Ortisei was more touristy with souvenir shops and restaurants. Ortisei also has a more compact “downtown” area full of bars, restaurants, shops, and direct access to a cable car. The liveliness of Ortisei was great at night, but it did make the town a bit too crowded during the day. It was nice to be able to float between the two towns depending on our mood.

If you are looking for an area to let your adventurous side thrive. A place to indulge in a mix of Italian and German food and culture. A respite to let your hair down and to refuel your imagination. You must visit Val Gardena. I have included our favorite places to eat while enjoying this region and vacationing in the Dolomites.